 |  | | | It's such a simple thing: flip on the windshield wiper switch and you assume the wipers will do their job. Press the button for the washer fluid and it sprays out, dissolving dust and bug anatomy, so the wipers can whisk it all away. Vision is restored, safety improved. You probably take this deceptively simple system for granted, but what do you do when it doesn't function properly? Here are some preventative steps to keep it working smoothly.
System Basics | Back To Top
First, the basics of the wiper system: The power behind the windshield wipers is generated by a small electric motor with a linkage that converts the motor output to the action of the wipers. There's also an electronic circuit that maintains power to the wipers while the blades act essentially like squeegees, dragging across the windshield and clearing the water. The motor is engineered to operate at a variety of speeds from high to intermittent.
Blade Replacement | Back To Top
As the blade ages, nicks or cracks can form. When these defects pick up road grime, the tight seal between blade and windshield erodes causing streaks. Wiping the blade clean can give you a few extra rainstorms of visibility, but now is the best time to replace the blades. The most economical fix-it is to simply replace the wiper refill (figure on doing this at least once a year). If that doesn't stop the streaking, try replacing the wiper blade assembly. Clean, quiet wiper action is as dependent on solid pressure as well as the condition of the rubber.
Aftermarket upgrades for a stock wiper include a blade that features a change-your-blade warning system with a yellow strip along the blade visible to the driver. Or you can opt for high-performance blades with a triple edge or a sporty-looking spoiler designed to increase downward force against the windshield at high speeds (and look cool, too). Before you head out to the auto parts store, check the length of the blade, especially if you drive something a little exotic.
To replace the blade, lift the wiper arm to a position perpendicular to the windshield (not all systems have this much travel, however). Remove the old blade, preferably without mangling the fasteners on the assembly. The owner's manual may provide some useful tips to help this job go more easily, since it's sometimes harder than it looks. The new blade will usually snap into a hook or fastener at the end of the wiper arm.
Some rear window wipers include the washer spray-nozzle as part of the assembly. To deal with this complication, lift the cover, remove the nut that holds the wiper arm, detach the washer-fluid tube and remove the wiper arm assembly. Once the blade has been replaced, follow these steps in reverse.
With any luck, replacing the wiper blade will be the extent of the system's maintenance. If there's more required, here are a few common problems and the most likely cause and fix:
> The wipers stop in a vertical position when shut off or in the park mode when switched to intermittent: Sorry, but the wiper motor probably needs replacing.
> The wipers kick in when the turn signal switch is activated: It's likely a switch problem, and both the turn signal and wiper switches need replacing.
> The wiper motor overheats and stops working: Check the motor ground connections. If the ground is not tight, the motor can draw extra amps and run hot.
Washer System | Back To Top
Now, let's move on to the windshield washer system. Anybody who's ever had it clog or fail realizes what a vital piece of equipment it is. That's especially true in snowy climates where a lot of road salt accumulates, or in areas where bugs and road grime build up on the windshield.
The washer system includes a washer-fluid reservoir, pump, fluid lines and spray nozzles mounted near the wipers or on the wiper arms. While you can use water mixed with a bit of household window cleaner in your reservoir if in a pinch, automotive wiper fluid is worth the cost because it contains mild antifreeze to keep it from, well, freezing. These fluids also contain wetting agents to keep mineral deposits from building up in the hoses and nozzles, as well as methanol and isopropyl alcohol with cleaning and degreasing properties.
If you're simply low on washer fluid, the only potential complication in refilling the washer fluid is that in older vehicles the reservoir may look a lot like the radiator overflow reservoir. Both are usually translucent white plastic containers containing fluid, readily visible once you pop the hood. Auto manufacturers solved this problem by specifically labeling both reservoir caps. There is no need to empty the container of the existing fluid. Simply maintain a respectable level of fluid in the system. Some reservoirs have a "Full" line on the side of the reservoir. If there is no such line, fill the reservoir to the top, replace the cap and you're good to go.
Fluid Pump | Back To Top
If the washer system stops emitting fluid and your reservoir is full and not leaking, the problem could be the pump. The fluid pump is usually located next to or beneath the reservoir. The best way to identify a pump problem is to activate the system and listen for the pump hum. No hum, chances are the pump needs replacing.
If the pump is humming but you're still not getting fluid out of the nozzles, check for kinks in the hoses or debris on the sprayer nozzle. The low-tech tool of choice to clear the nozzles is a safety pin. If that doesn't clear the lines, you may need to disconnect the ends and force air or water through them. Just be careful where you're pointing the hoses.
Keep up with these simple maintenance items for both the wipers and washer. That way you'll see clearly for miles.
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